“What’s there to be afraid of – off to Prachov Rocks!” I’ve had this Czech children’s song stuck in my head since childhood, and every time someone mentions Bohemian Paradise, it starts up all by itself. This August I found out again that the words don’t lie. There really is nothing to be afraid of – but the views really are a long way up.
We arrived in the afternoon, it was thirty degrees, and the Central car park was almost full – only a few spaces left. We paid a hundred crowns, in cash, and like proper tourists, we stopped for langoše (deep-fried flatbread) before we’d even set foot in the rocks. Then came the moment at the ticket office where you choose your trail: yellow 1.5 km, red 2.5 km, green 3.5 km. Daniel chose the green one. Thank you, Daniel. In thirty-degree heat, that was exactly the choice that has you dragging yourself through the rock town like a snail while telling everyone around you that you’re simply soaking up the views.
And you know what? We did soak them up. Prachov Rocks aren’t a pile of stones you can walk round in twenty minutes. It’s a whole town of sandstone towers, where you can climb up and down staircases someone carved at a time when nobody worried about safety standards, and where every other viewpoint opens onto half of Bohemian Paradise. In this article you’ll find everything we checked and tried for ourselves: how much admission costs in 2026, how the three trails differ, where to park, how demanding those legendary steps actually are, where to eat (and why you should bring cash) and what else is worth adding in the area if you want to spend a whole weekend here.
Both the ticket and the parking are valid all day, so you don’t have to get through the rock town in one go.
Prachov Rocks lie in the Hradec Králové Region, roughly 7 km west of Jičín, and they’re part of the Bohemian Paradise Protected Landscape Area. Czechia has several rock towns and each has its own character. The Adršpach Rocks are, in our view, more monumental and certainly better known; Hruboskalsko, on the other side of Bohemian Paradise, is airier and – unlike Prachov – free to walk into. Prachov Rocks have something the others can’t so easily take away from them: a combination of density and views.
The rock towers here stand packed so close together that the gorges running between them are barely wide enough for one person – and then you climb up the steps and suddenly you’re looking out over the treetops across the whole of Bohemian Paradise. From the Míru viewpoint on a clear day you can see Trosky, Ještěd and Bezděz Castle (source: prachovskeskaly.cz). That’s the contrast you take home from Prachov: one minute you’re squeezing through a rock crevice, and a minute later you’re standing above the landscape.
And then there’s a second thing I only came to appreciate this year. The site is genuinely huge. The car park was almost full, sure, but once you’re in among the rocks, people spread out nicely. Everyone has their own pace; some stop at every sign, others rush through. The only queues were at the viewpoints, where people took turns to get their photo – but nothing that spoiled the experience.
Prachov Rocks are privately owned – they’re run by the company J. M. Schlik, s.r.o., that is, the descendants of the Schlik family, who owned the rocks back at the start of the 20th century. That’s why there’s an admission fee here, unlike most freely accessible rock areas.
The price list is split by season and is posted right at the ticket office. The table below is transcribed from our own photo of it, not from the website:
| Category | Main season (1 June–30 September) | Off-season (1 October–31 May) |
|---|---|---|
| Standard (adults) | 200 CZK (about €8) | 150 CZK (about €6) |
| Reduced (children 3–15, students up to 26, seniors 65+, TP, ZTP or ZTP/P disability card holders) | 150 CZK (about €6) | 100 CZK (about €4) |
| Family (2 adults + 2 children) | 550 CZK (about €23) | 400 CZK (about €17) |
| Children 0–2 years | free | free |
| Dog | 50 CZK (about €2) | 30 CZK (about €1) |
Both admission and parking can be paid by card, according to the operator, and Multisport is also accepted, though Sodexo Flexi Pass isn’t. We paid for admission by card ourselves, and it went through without any problems. We photographed the price list at the ticket office; the prices match the website, and the only difference is that the reduced-admission category is broken down in more detail on the sign. For the car park, though, we paid the hundred crowns in cash, so it’s worth keeping some change on you. The nearest cash machines are all the way over in Jičín (Tesco, Kaufland).
Our tip: hold on to your ticket. It’s valid all day, so if you run out of energy halfway round the trail, you can head back to the Turistická chata (the trailhead chalet) for lunch and then carry on.
At the ticket office you choose one of three marked trails. They all start at the Turistická chata and all loop back to it again – the only difference is how much you get to see.
| Trail | Length | Official time | Who it’s for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yellow (the short trail) | 1.5 km | 45 minutes of unhurried walking | A quick taste, little time, younger children |
| Red | 2.5 km | 1.5 hours | The happy medium |
| Green (the long trail) | 3.5 km | 2 hours | For those who want to see everything |
| Blue | – | – | Pushchair route, from the upper ticket office |
The yellow trail takes you through Myší díra (the Mouse Hole), the Českého ráje viewpoint, the U buku junction, the Míru viewpoint and Císařská chodba (the Emperor’s Corridor). You’ll only manage it in three quarters of an hour if you don’t stop – and here, that’s not really possible.
The red trail adds the Křížkovského viewpoint, the Hlaholská viewpoint and the descent to the Mnich rock. If we went again in the afternoon, or in heat like that, this is probably the one we’d take – we did the green one, and we felt it.
The green trail – the one we did – also takes in the Pechova viewpoint, Fortna, Šikmá věž (the Leaning Tower), Masarykova cesta, the Rumcajsova and Hakenova viewpoints, and finally Všetečkova and Schlikova. It’s the most complete tour of the rocks you can get here.
And now for the important part: officially the green trail is listed at two hours of unhurried walking. It took us considerably longer. The official version is that we were soaking up the views. The unofficial version is that it was thirty degrees and we were dragging ourselves along like snails. Either way – allow three hours rather than two, especially if you’re going in summer, with children, or you like taking photos.
All three start and end at the Turistická chata by the Central car park. Each longer trail includes the whole of the shorter one and adds more viewpoints on top.
It doesn’t run from the Central car park, but from the upper ticket office in the village of Prachov. After about 200 metres it turns off onto a forest track, passes Čertova kuchyně (the Devil’s Kitchen) and brings you to the U buku junction. An all-terrain pushchair is recommended, and you go back the same way. From here you can reach the viewpoints on foot, without the pushchair – you won’t get through the gorges or up the stairs with it.
We put the diagram above together ourselves, from what’s marked on the ground and what the operator says. For a classic map of the area, see the hiking map on Mapy.com.
The signposts out on the trails also give the distances between individual points, handy if you want to shorten the trail or add a detour. From Zadní Točenice, for example, it’s 200 metres to Schlikova viewpoint and 300 metres to Všetečkova – both detours off the green trail, and both worth the extra few minutes.
This was a lovely surprise – though I only found it out afterwards, when I looked it up. We don’t have kids ourselves and never made it to the upper ticket office, but they’ve clearly thought about families here: the blue-marked trail is passable with a pushchair and brings you to the U buku junction. From there, Pechova viewpoint, Českého ráje viewpoint, Míru viewpoint, and the Hlaholská and Křížkovského viewpoints are all reachable on foot – but you’ll have to walk back to the pushchair, as you won’t get it up there.
BUT – and this is a detail that can really trip you up – the pushchair trail doesn’t start at the Central car park, where we parked. It runs from the upper ticket office in the village of Prachov, and after about 200 metres it turns off onto a forest track and passes Čertova kuchyně. An all-terrain pushchair is recommended, and you go back the same way. You won’t get a pushchair into the inner gorges or up the stairs, which is only logical.
The pushchair trail is the one part of the rocks where choosing the wrong car park can cost you the whole trip.
I have to be honest here, because this is something most articles brush off in one sentence. The stairs in the Prachov Rocks are no picnic.
They’re natural, cut into the sandstone, of varying height and width. We went in dry weather, so we can’t tell you how slippery it gets – but wet sandstone is notoriously slick, so bear that in mind. Some sections are considerably more demanding than others – Pechova viewpoint is described as “a more demanding climb up many stone steps”, and Císařská chodba has several dozen steps in a row. There’s a handrail in some places, and none in others.
But – and this is the important part – it’s nothing you can’t manage. I managed it as a child in the nineties, and I managed it as an adult this August in thirty-degree heat. It’s not about mountaineering, it’s about going at your own pace, having proper shoes, and not rushing.
The official website doesn’t state the exact number of steps or the elevation gain, so I won’t give you a figure here. It’s more useful to know this:
Let’s get this out of the way first: we don’t climb, and I’m not writing this section from experience. But Prachov is one of the best-known sandstone climbing areas in Czechia, and the rules here are stricter than most hikers expect, so it’s worth knowing them – even if you’re just walking the trail and will only see climbers overhead.
According to Czech Radio, the local Lezecký kroužek Prachov (Prachov Climbing Club) is the oldest and largest climbing club in Czechia and has been active here for over a hundred and ten years. Routes first climbed here by pioneering climbers in the fifties and sixties are still climbed today.
For us as hikers, that has one practical consequence: climbers move off the marked trails and have permission to do so; you don’t. Anyone who leaves the path risks a fine – this is Zone I of the Protected Landscape Area.
The operator names eleven viewpoints in the area, and nine of them lie on the three trails – Vítkova and Skautská don’t. Honestly, after the fifth one they all start to blur together. Remember these:
Míru viewpoint – for us, the best view in the whole area. You can see the central part of the rock town from it, and on a clear day Trosky, Ještěd and Bezděz Castle. It’s on the yellow, red and green trails, so you won’t miss it even on the shortest option.
Českého ráje viewpoint – the Bohemian Paradise viewpoint, so the name says it all. It’s easily reached on the pushchair trail too.
Všetečkova viewpoint – a 300-metre detour off the green trail. It has a memorial plaque on the rock dated 28 May 1922 from the Tourist Club of Jičín, a detail that delighted me more than the obligatory photo did.
Schlikova viewpoint – named after the family that owns the rocks. A 200-metre detour, right next to Všetečkova.
Hlaholská viewpoint – on both the red and green trails. The descent to the Mnich rock is then on the red trail only.
Officially there are two paid car parks at the two ticket offices:
| Vehicle | Price for the whole day |
|---|---|
| Car, motorcycle | 100 CZK (about €4) |
| Bus | 500 CZK (about €21) |
| Caravan, motorhome | 500 CZK (about €21) |
On the way from Jičín we passed several other parking areas before we reached the Central one – so if you see the first parking sign, you don’t have to stop right away. The opposite is also true: in high season, the Central car park is often full in the afternoon, and those closer car parks are your lifesaver then.
What’s changed since the nineties: the car parks have grown a lot bigger. As a child I used to walk here from the pond; nowadays people drive right up to the rocks. We’ve all got lazier – and yes, I admit, we took the easy option ourselves this year.
| From | Distance | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Prague | 93 km | 1 h 12 min |
| Hradec Králové | 56.5 km | 54 min |
| Liberec | 46.5 km | 46 min |
| Jičín | 7.6 km | 12 min |
From Prague or from Mladá Boleslav, you drive along road I/16, and on the outskirts of Jičín you turn off towards Holín and Prachov. From Prague it’s a comfortable day trip, although we’d sooner stay the night and see more of the area.
The nearest railway stop is Jinolice on the Turnov-Jičín line. From there, a green hiking trail around the Jinolice ponds leads to the rocks; it’s about 3.5 km. That, incidentally, is exactly the route I used to walk here as a child.
By bus you can get here on line 510 from Jičín to the Holín, Prachov, Skalní město stop. In the 2026 season, from 30 April to 30 September, there’s also a tourist cycle bus running the route Jičín – Holín – Prachov Rocks – Pařezská Lhota – Mladějov – Sobotka – Podkost, on weekends and public holidays, and from 1 July to 31 August on weekdays too.
The Prachov Rocks work fine as a day trip, but Bohemian Paradise is practically made for a weekend. We’ve picked four places to stay to suit different budgets and needs – two of them are literally a few minutes from the entrance to the rocks.
Chosen from our own experience
Our take: if you’re only coming for the rocks and want to be first out the door in the morning, go for Penzion Prachov. If you’re planning to explore the whole of Bohemian Paradise, it’s worth going for Hrubá Skála – you’ll be staying in a chateau in the middle of a second rock town.
By the Central car park there’s what I privately think of as a little village: Turistická chata Prachov with a restaurant, opposite Pelíšek’s kiosk and a cake shop, an information centre selling souvenirs, and a few wooden stalls with mead and knick-knacks. Like proper tourists, we stopped by right at the start, before even entering the rocks. There was a short queue at the window, but they served us quickly.
WATCH OUT: at Pelíšek’s kiosk, where we bought our food, it was cash only. We can’t vouch for the restaurant at the Turistická chata or the cake shop, since we didn’t pay there. We paid around 100–200 CZK (about €4–8) for our langoše, which is fine for a tourist spot. There are pricier dishes on the board too, so don’t judge the whole menu by that figure. But if you turn up with an empty wallet and rely on a card terminal, you’ll be hungry all the way to Jičín.
We paid for admission by card. But bring cash for food at the rocks.
Our tip: stuffing yourself before the green trail isn’t the best strategy. Next time we’ll just have a coffee, walk the trail, and eat afterwards.
The site is accessible year-round, but the ticket office’s opening hours vary depending on the season. The operator also notes that they may be adjusted according to current visitor numbers or the weather, so don’t count on the exact opening and closing times:
Outside the season, admission is cheaper (150 CZK instead of 200 CZK), but the facilities don’t operate – no toilets, no refreshments. In winter, once there’s snow or ice about, we wouldn’t recommend it. Those steps are daunting enough in dry weather.
From our experience: an afternoon in August is the worst combination. A full car park, packed viewpoints and thirty degrees. If we went again, we’d set off early in the morning, right after it opens at 8:00. We also felt noticeably better in the gorges than at the viewpoints in full sun.
The best time is probably May and September to October. We were there ourselves in August, so we can’t say this from our own experience – but reviews on the operator’s website repeatedly recommend going in spring or autumn, and early morning or late afternoon. Fewer people and bearable temperatures – it makes sense. We’ve got more tips like this for travelling around Czechia in our article about where to go for a weekend for two in Czechia.
This section is a personal one for me. When I was little, we didn’t drive to Prachov Rocks – we used to walk here from the Jinolice pond. We stayed at the campsite, set off in the morning and walked through the forest all the way to those majestic giants. It was a pleasant walk, just the right length, and pretty much everyone from the campsite did it. And from the rocks we’d look down over the whole of Bohemian Paradise.
The Jinolice ponds are a set of three – Oborský (the largest, with a sandy beach and swimming), Němeček (swimming by the dam) and Vražda (a protected natural monument since 1990, swimming banned). According to Czech Radio, Oborský covers 11.4 ha, Němeček 5.2 ha and Vražda 2.1 ha. The official Prachov Rocks website lists them in its FAQ as the closest place to swim.
The walking route from the campsite to the rocks is roughly 3 km and takes just over an hour (Mapy.com, hiking mode). From the Jinolice railway stop it’s 3.5 km along the green trail. So my childhood memory of the walk being “just the right distance” checks out pretty well.
Autokemp Jinolice price list for 2026
| Accommodation | Low season | High season (1 June – 31 August) |
|---|---|---|
| Cabins (4 beds) | 1,200 CZK/night (about €50) | 1,700 CZK/night (about €70) |
| Amálka cabin (5 beds) | 1,400 CZK/night (about €58) | 2,000 CZK/night (about €83) |
| Barborka cabin (8 beds) | 2,000 CZK/night (about €83) | 2,500 CZK/night (about €103) |
| Student cabin (2 beds) | 700 CZK/night (about €29) | 800 CZK/night (about €33) |
Camping costs 130 CZK (about €5) for a small one-person tent, 170 CZK (about €7) for a tent for two or more people, 250 CZK (about €10) for a motorhome, 200 CZK (about €8) for a caravan and 150 CZK (about €6) for electricity. On top of that, 130 CZK (about €5) per person over 12, 90 CZK (about €4) per child aged 3–12, 130 CZK (about €5) for a car and a 20 CZK (about €1) municipal fee for everyone aged 18 and over. So a couple with a tent and a car comes to 600 CZK (about €25) a night, not 430 CZK. In the high season the minimum stay is two nights.
A small note for accuracy: there are several similarly named campsites around Jinolice, and we couldn’t reliably work out which one is by which pond. Before booking, it’s best to check directly with the accommodation provider. If sleeping outdoors with a bit of extra comfort appeals to you, take a look at our overview of cheap glamping around Czechia.
Bohemian Paradise is packed with things to see, and Prachov is just one of its highlights. Here are the nearest destinations, with driving distances from the Central car park:
| Destination | Distance | Time | Admission |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jičín (centre) | 7.6 km | 12 min | free |
| Trosky Castle | 12.8 km | 19 min | Adults 180 CZK (about €7) |
| Humprecht Chateau (Sobotka) | 15.1 km | 18 min | Adults 150 CZK (about €6) |
| Kost Castle | 17.5 km | 20 min | 190 CZK / €8 (Circuit I or II) |
| Valdštejn Castle | 20.4 km | 28 min | Adults 150 CZK (about €6) |
| Hruboskalsko rock town | 22.8 km | 34 min | open access, free |
Two towers on two basalt pinnacles that have always been called Baba and Panna – and which you can see from half of Bohemian Paradise, including from the Míru viewpoint in Prachov Rocks.
Trosky is managed by the National Heritage Institute, and the visit is self-guided, with no guided tours – you pay admission and walk around the castle on your own.
Admission 2026: adults 180 CZK (about €7), seniors 65+ and young people aged 18–24 140 CZK (about €6), children aged 6–17 50 CZK (about €2), children under 5 free. The website does not list a family ticket.
Opening hours 2026: the season runs from 2 April to 1 November, and it’s closed over winter. In April and October it only opens on weekends, during school holidays and on public holidays; in May, June and September it’s open daily except Mondays; in July and August it’s open daily. Specific hours: it’s open 9:00–17:30 from 1 July to 31 August, then 9:00–16:00 from 1 September to 1 November. If a public holiday falls on a closing day, the castle is open. The website doesn’t list specific hours for April to June, so it’s best to check before you travel.
If you don’t have a car, or simply don’t want to deal with the logistics, you can also head to Bohemian Paradise with a guide from Prague. These are the tours we checked out:
From Prague: Hiking tour of Bohemian Paradise, lunch at a castle and a brewery – hotel pickup, a 3.5 km walk through the rock labyrinth of Prachov Rocks, lunch at a medieval castle and a craft beer tasting. Designed for smaller groups 🙂
From Prague: Full-day guided walking trip through Bohemian Paradise – by train from Prague, a loop through Hruboskalsko, Valdštejn Castle and Hrubá Skála Chateau. Also suitable for families with children.
Prague: Full-day trip to Bohemian Paradise and Kost Castle – private hotel pickup, skip-the-line entry to Kost Castle, a guide.
You’ll find more tour options for the area on the Prachov Rocks page on GetYourGuide.
Jičín is the town of Rumcajs, the storybook robber. Václav Čtvrtek set his fairy tales in this landscape and in real places, which is why one of the viewpoints on the green trail is called Rumcajsova. It never once occurred to us out on the trail, and that’s a shame: with kids, it’s a completely different trip when they know where they’re going.
Rumcajs’s cave in the Řáholec forest really does exist. It’s a sandstone cave on the edge of Prachov Rocks, freely accessible and free, and inside it’s furnished as if the family actually lived there: the bed of Cipísek, his son, is made, the toys are tidied away, a jug of flowers on the table, and even a visitors’ book. According to Czech Radio, it’s about 300 metres from the car park by Penzion Brada.
It connects to the Rumcajs trail, roughly 15 kilometres in total. It starts in Mladějov, but you can also join it from Prachov Rocks, so you can just do a short stretch of it, depending on how much energy the kids have left.
The cave lies outside the paid area. Your ticket to the rocks doesn’t cover it, and you don’t need one anyway.
We have to add one thing: we haven’t been to the cave. This section is based on research, not on our own visit, and we’re including it here because it’s the one place nearby that, looking back on this trip, we’d add to the plan. Once we get there, we’ll add our own photos and impressions.
For two people, without an overnight stay, a day comes to 500 CZK (about €21) in the high season and 400 CZK (about €17) outside it – admission and parking, and nothing else. As soon as you add a night, you’re at 2,700 CZK (about €112), and the whole difference between the standard day and the one with money to spare is just whether you sleep in a guesthouse below the rocks or in the Hrubá Skála Chateau.
| Item | On a budget | Standard | With money to spare |
|---|---|---|---|
| Admission (2 adults) | 300 CZK / €12 (off-season) | 400 CZK (about €17) | 400 CZK (about €17) |
| Parking | 100 CZK (about €4) | 100 CZK (about €4) | 100 CZK (about €4) |
| Food and drink | your own packed lunch, 0 CZK | 300 CZK / €12 (2 meals at the Turistická chata) | 500 CZK / €21 (lunch at a restaurant) |
| Accommodation (2 people/night) | – (day trip) | about 1,900 CZK (Penzion Prachov, €80) | about 3,200 CZK (Hrubá Skála, €131) |
| Total | about 400 CZK / €17 | about 2,700 CZK / €112 | about 4,200 CZK / €174 |
Arriving without cash. We paid for admission by card, but that wasn’t possible at Pelíšek’s kiosk. The nearest cash machine is in Jičín.
Choosing the green trail in the afternoon heat. Yes, I’m talking about myself. It’s fine in the shaded gorges, but the climbs up to the viewpoints are in full sun.
Arriving with a pushchair at the Central car park. The pushchair route starts at the upper ticket office in the village of Prachov. You won’t get anywhere with a pushchair from here.
Skimping on footwear. Natural steps, tree roots and sandstone. In sandals it will be uncomfortable, and dangerous after rain.
Relying on the official times. The two hours quoted for the green trail assume a steady pace and no stops. With photos, viewpoints and a break, count on more like three.
They’re great for: active couples and families with school-age children, anyone who loves a good view, photographers, anyone who wants a day trip from Prague with a genuine experience, and people who don’t mind two to three hours of walking up and back down again.
They’re not ideal for: people with reduced mobility, manual wheelchair users, visitors with a standard pushchair starting from the Central car park (the solution is the blue route from the upper ticket office), anyone with a serious fear of heights or claustrophobia in narrow gorges, and anyone picturing a flat walk.
We’d set off at 8:00 and go in May instead of August. We’d have a coffee instead of langoše, walk the green trail in the shade, come back for lunch and drive to Trosky in the afternoon. And we’d save Hruboskalsko for the second day.
Prachov Rocks are worth that 100 CZK (about €4) for parking and 200 CZK (about €8) for admission. It isn’t a place where you tick off a photo and move on. It’s a place where three hours take you from gorges so narrow you have to squeeze through sideways to viewpoints with Trosky and Ještěd on the horizon.
There’s really nothing to be afraid of. Just bring proper shoes and cash.
You’ll find more tips for travelling around Czechia in our Czechia section – and if you enjoy Czech towns with atmosphere, take a look at our complete guide to Český Krumlov.
Adults pay 200 CZK (about €8) in the high season (1 June – 30 September) and 150 CZK (about €6) outside it; the reduced admission is 150 CZK (about €6) and 100 CZK (about €4) respectively. A family ticket for two adults and two children comes to 550 CZK (about €23), or 400 CZK (about €17) outside the season. The ticket is valid all day.
According to the operator, you can pay for both admission and parking by card, and Multisport is accepted too (Sodexo Flexi Pass is not). We paid for admission by card ourselves. We paid for parking in cash, though, and Pelíšek’s kiosk at the entrance only took cash – so you can’t do without it. The nearest cash machines are in Jičín.
According to the official website, 45 minutes for the yellow trail (1.5 km), 1.5 hours for the red (2.5 km) and 2 hours for the green (3.5 km) at a steady walking pace. Allow some extra time – the green trail took us noticeably longer.
100 CZK (about €4) for a car or motorcycle for the whole day, 500 CZK (about €21) for a bus or a caravan. The price is the same all year round. The operator states it for the Central car park; it doesn’t publish a price for the car park at the upper ticket office.
Yes, but only along the blue-marked route, which starts at the upper ticket office in the village of Prachov and takes you to the U buku junction and several viewpoints. An all-terrain pushchair is recommended. You can’t get into the rocks with a pushchair from the Central car park.
Yes, on a lead. The fee is 50 CZK (about €2) in the high season and 30 CZK (about €1) outside it; you’ll get a poo bag at the ticket office.
Yes. From June to September, 8:00–18:00; for the rest of the year, 9:00–17:00; you have to leave the trails by 20:00. Outside the season the toilets and refreshment stalls are closed, and a visit isn’t recommended when there’s snow or ice.
By train to the Jinolice stop on the Turnov-Jičín line, and then 3.5 km on foot along the green trail past the ponds. Or by bus 510 from Jičín to the Holín, Prachov, Skalní město stop. A tourist cycle bus also runs from late April to late September.
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